Work has been keeping me busy, but there has been loads of climbing going on at the shoreditch boulder over the past week.
There is a discussion going on on the UKC forum and someone, slintank, has made a claim for some first ascents:
inner city pressure v2
up the right hand arete on the north face of the boulder
shoreditch tw*t v3
the southeast corner topping out on the east face with a sit start.
the highgate shake v5
straight up the slab on the west face. no arete, no drill holes.
Whether they are firsts or not, those are definitely some nice problems on the rock. I've updated some pictures on my flicker set and I may get around to annotating the pics later today.
That said, looking at his description of the highgate shake, I'd probably disagree. If you move in to the centre of the west face from the right avoiding the boreholes, then it's not harder than V3. It's posibly V2. I think getting establish face on might be half a grade harder, but I've not done it yet so I can't say what I think for certain.
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2 comments:
started working on a great problem on the south face - big diagonal dyno from the bore hole on the right... didn`t make much progress and got a bit banged up! If it goes it`ll be hard - v6 or above I think
Agree that the centre of the West slab is not V5. I climbed it from a diagonal rail / crimp for the RH and baddish sidepull crimp for the LH and foot on a rubber-covered edge about 8 inches up. Pull on, reach to the rail, match. Pull up and establish feet on the slab, then up to the top via the rail you just matched on. Absolute top end would be ultra-easy V4. More like V3 IMO. I agree if you started further to the right and worked your way up and across it would probably be V2 instead.
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