Monday, January 12, 2009

Nice image of the Mabley Green Boulder

Ingrid from PEER, the art foundation that backed the boulder project, just
send me this lovely image of the Mabley Green boulder, enjoy.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Quick update, the boulder is now totally open

OK, this is not exactly timely news, but the fences around the shoreditch boulder have been removed about two weeks ago. The grass has grown in very nicely around the base, and in spite of the cold weather the climbing on the rock is still excellent. I managed to get down last weekend for about half an hour.

I'll upload some new pics in the new year when I get my hands on an iPhone!

Friday, September 26, 2008


Shoreditch_Boulder, originally uploaded by nagore.

Nagore has taken the time to mark up another problem on the shoreditch boulder. That's really great!

The problem tackles the right hand arete. An interesting variation on this problem is to traverse in from the right using the rail. Left hand and left foot on the left hand arete, right hand to the middle of the rail, match, traverse, finish up the right hand arete!

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Dates for bouldering comp announced for next weekend

Sadly I will be away on holiday, but it looks like it might be a lot
of fun, and there is some real cash prizes to be had.

If anyone posts pics on flickr can you let me know at or just tag the pics
#shoreditchbouldering and I'll find em.

New competition dates

John Frankland / BOULDER

12pm, Saturday 13th September in Mabley Green (Homerton Road, London E9)

12pm, Sunday 14th September in Shoreditch Park (New North Road, London N1)

First prizes for the men's and women's catagories of £250 cash, with
second and third prizes in climbing equipment vouchers valued at £150
and £50.

Register on the day. Competitions are subject to good weather.

For further information, contact Mile End Climbing Wall on 020 8980 0289.

For further information about the Boulder project contact Takako Jin
or Ingrid Swenson on 020 7739 8080 or

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Quick break from the sunny UK

Well, the Shoreditch boulder is back under construction, and has been for about the past week. They are going to landscape it and hide the concrete base. It looks like the work could drag on through September.

The Mabley boulder ~should be open now, but I've not had a chance to get up there, been snowed under with work :/

I'm off to the content for three weeks from next Monday, so I'll be saying farewell to the rocks for a little while. On the bright side my break will include 5 days in Fontainebleau!

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Best Holds, north face

Best Holds, north face, originally uploaded by Ian Mulvany.

I've tagged up another picture. If you go to flickr you can look at the large version and the names come up nicely.

The two obvious problems are climbing the face, with and without the right arete.

With the arete it's about V2, maybe soft V2 if you know where to go, hard V2 otherwise.

Not using the arete, well, there are a host of options. The easiest is also V2 and the hardest that I've seen done to date is about font 6c, or V4-V5, at least that's what the guy's who did it said, and I'm not about to argue with em.


V2/V3?, originally uploaded by Ian Mulvany.

I've been thinking about playing with the picnik toolkit for marking up the problems on the boulders, but I'm not too happy with it right now. Here is an example of the kind of view you get on the boulder, but it seems a bt, I guess, legoland. I think I'll just go and browse through my library of bouldering guides to get some inspiration.